Our ‘Golden’ Summer Blog Series Part VIII- Elgin Cathedral

*Our Golden Retriever explorer, Walter, takes you on a wee peaceful journey to Elgin Cathedral.

Walter’s Travel Journal: Day 8- Elgin Cathedral

As I trot beside my little brother, Arthur, on our way to Elgin Cathedral, I have the feeling that today is more than just one of our typical adventures. I’ve been feeling bad about how hard I was on him on yesterday’s exploration at Brodie Castle, and this visit seems like the perfect opportunity to make amends. Here, amidst the towering ruins and ancient stones, there’s a sense of something much bigger than us. It's peaceful, and I feel hopeful that this experience will bring us closer together.

Elgin Cathedral, often referred to as the “Lantern of the North,” stands as a testament to the rich history of the area. Constructed in the 13th century, it has witnessed centuries of change and turmoil. The cathedral was once the seat of the Bishop of Moray, and its splendour reflected the power and wealth of that position (the Bishops of Moray were some of the most powerful men in medieval Scotland). One bishop described Elgin Cathedral as "the ornament of the realm, the glory of the kingdom". However, the Cathedral suffered during the Wars of Scottish Independence, and later, in the 16th century, the Reformation led to its partial dismantling. Despite its turbulent past, the ruins maintain an impressive dignity.

Now, I know that it is difficult to picture the once grandeur of Elgin Cathedral, but I will do my best! Arthur and I are starting our tour at the west front, where we’re immediately greeted by the imposing remains of twin towers.

This grand entrance would only have been used on special occasions (e.g. feast days). Therefore, it only seems fitting that this is the door that I use to enter the site.😉

Although I can’t go inside the west front towers, Mom and Dad talk about the exhibitions on display. There are numerous carved stone pieces throughout both towers that once adorned the Cathedral and hint at its former glory. The various artefacts speak to the importance of the Bishops of Moray as well as the craftsmanship of long ago. Apparently, some of the faces are a little scary according to Arthur. As this is a day of reconciliation, I hold my tongue rather than point out that he’s being a bit of a baby.

Dad’s pictures also help me to imagine the views from the top and the breath-taking panorama of the surrounding landscape.

The view below is from one of the towers and it gives a helpful overview of what was the nave, the crossing, the transepts, with the choir and presbytery furthest in the distance behind the scaffolding.

Speaking of scaffolding, that is there because of the conservation work being done by Historic Scotland (who take care of Elgin Cathedral). There is a sign that explains that their “masons are applying a waterproof capping…. which will protect the cathedral from increased rainfall caused by climate change”. Additionally, once that is complete, they “will be replacing eroded stonework, which is falling away and compromising the structural integrity of the cathedral”. It’s nice to know that they are working hard to preserve such an important part of Scottish history.

Back on the ground, I’m particularly impressed with Arthur’s posing skills in this photo. Take note of the building in the background that is outside the Cathedral’s modern wrought iron fence. However, that building was once part of the community at Elgin Cathedral.

You see, back in medieval times, the Cathedral was surrounded by a walled precinct, known as a chanonry. Historic Scotland points out that it “contained the buildings and services needed to support the cathedral, such as granaries, barns, a bakehouse and a brewhouse. Furthermore, the cathedral clergy, or canons, each kept a manse with the chanonry". The building behind Arthur is the only surviving manse. It is known locally as the Bishop’s House, but it was most likely home to the precentor- the canon responsible for directing the order of service and music in the cathedral.

Historic Scotland artistic rendering of the buildings and manses around Elgin Cathedral around 1500.

As we move into the nave, Arthur and I look down the long, open stretch where once stood magnificent arches and columns. This was the part of the church where the public were allowed to attend services. The crossing, where the nave and transepts meet, was a focal point of the cathedral, and we pause to take it all in.

Here’s another view of the nave, looking back it from the crossing (with the west towers in the background). To the left you can see the south transept. The transepts were the ‘arms’ of the cathedral and contained chapels with small altars.

Here are more photos of the south transept.

The choir (including the choir aisles) and presbytery are equally awe-inspiring, with their remnants of architectural majesty.

The presbytery was the most sacred part of the church as it contained the high altar.

Though my paws can't lead me inside the chapter house, Mom and Dad are telling us about the treasures they just found there. With its vaulted ceiling and echoing walls, it was once a meeting place for the cathedral's clergy where they conducted their daily business. Fascinatingly, it was the only octagonal chapter house in Scotland.

We’ve had a busy time touring, so we are stopping for a break to take in a view of the Cathedral grounds. Arthur lies beside me, both of us silently acknowledging the grandeur of what once was.

Here are a few more photos from Elgin Cathedral:

As our day at Elgin Cathedral comes to a close, I give Arthur a playful nudge, grateful for this day of discovery and reconciliation. I highly recommend a visit to Elgin Cathedral as there is so much more to see and learn! For those planning a visit, be sure to check out the Historic Scotland website for Elgin Cathedral to get the latest information.

Lastly, I encourage you to keep following our adventures as we continue our epic Scottish Grand Tour. I haven’t told him yet, but Arthur has impressed me so much on today’s exploration, I’ve decided to finally let him write about a castle. Stay tuned for that!

Until next time- Explore & Discover!

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